History and Current Situation
Qingdao, which is surrounded by mountains and faces the sea, is a booming city. In such a city, there are naturally active people in various fields. There are also a group of active rock climbing activists in the outdoor circle. We shuttled between the city and the mountains in search of the passion for climbing. In fact, few people know that Qingdao can climb rocks, but there are many people who know Tsingtao Beer. In fact, only when you come to Qingdao can you experience the pride and passion of rock and wine.
The rock climbing movement in Qingdao started relatively late. The first artificial rock wall in Qingdao was erected in September 2000. The club at that time was called “Vertical Limit”. At that time, Wen Xian and Cao Rongwu also participated in the competition. The competition caused quite a stir at the time, but the “Vertical Limit” only lasted for half a year due to operational problems, and it has been silent since then. Later, there were outdoor sports clubs such as Mountain Side, Power Peak, and Pathfinder, but the clubs that started to engage in rock climbing activities were the Jinshangyi Mountaineering Club established in 2003 and the Yilu Outdoor Sports Club later. The Jinshangyi Mountaineering Club, established in 2003, was once a gathering place for Shimajo rock friends, because there is a bouldering rock wall here for everyone to solve their urgency. But because the place is relatively far away, people go less and less slowly. Now the establishment of Yilu Outdoor Club provides a new gathering place for the majority of enthusiasts. The bouldering site here is more than 30 square meters, and the rock wall is 4 meters high. It has become a place for everyone to practice on weekdays. Every Tuesday and Thursday, it will be lively and lively here. That is to say, this group of people is now sparing no effort to promote the development of rock climbing in Qingdao.
At present, there are more than 40 rock climbing routes in Qingdao, ranging in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12a. Almost all the rock walls are made of granite. The giant who built the Monument to the People’s Heroes was collected from Qingdao. The climbing of granite is completely different from that of limestone. The surface of granite is either rough or smooth. It is quite difficult to find a suitable stone wall, and the texture of granite is hard. This fanatic. The extremists represented by Wen Xian and Jun Hai overcame many difficulties and opened up several wonderful routes.
The first natural rock wall route in Qingdao is the afternoon sunshine of Fushan. It was developed by Wenwen, Rocker and Lao Yang in April 2001. It is 10 meters high and has a difficulty level of less than 5.9. There is no Hanger in the whole process. There are two 0s on the top. When climbing, you need to do top rope protection after climbing unprotected from the front crack. Because the rock wall of the climbing route is on the shady side, the sun will not shine all morning, and the sun will shine directly on the rock wall after noon, so the rock wall is called “afternoon sunshine”. Since 2004, we have successively opened several other routes in Fushan. In May 2004, Shanghai Climbing Friends Laofan and Wenwen first developed a route called “Kevin”. Rocker et al. trimmed, and now there are two formed lines. The one on the right is called “Kevin”, and the one on the left was repaired when the shadow of the distant mountain just won a lovely daughter, and he successfully climbed the route for the first time, so it was named “baby”. The “Kevin” route is about 22 meters high, with 8 hangers and a difficulty level of 5.11. The “baby” route is about 15 meters high. There are 6 hangers in the whole process, and the difficulty level is 5.9. In 2005, rocker wrote the details of these two routes, which is the “Fushan Rock Wall” that is now circulating on various outdoor websites. Shaoyan friends follow the map to go rock climbing here.
The melody of “Blue Lotus” has accompanied us to open up many wonderful routes, and nothing can stop me from yearning for freedom! I long to fly freely on the rock wall like a bird, and I long to roam freely on the rock wall like a gecko, but these are all so difficult. Except for a few limited routes on the Fushan Mountain, almost all the routes in Qingdao before 2005. It is in the deep mountains, and the road to the rock field is long, basically it takes 2 to 3 hours to walk, but these routes themselves are very attractive to us. Towering boulder walls, beautiful cracks, just right crystal mines, we are on the road again and again like drinking poison to quench our thirst.
Starting in 2005, the route found several rock walls that are close to the stone and suitable for development. These rock walls are all within 40 minutes away from the road, and the scenery is beautiful. The yearning for the mountains, and this yearning for the most primitive climbing make everyone meet to go swimming in the mountains together on weekends. Maybe we have to be thankful for nature’s gift to us. The geographical environment of Laoshan is quite good. The entire climbing season can last from mid-February to mid-November. The weather in the mountains in February is not very cold, and the rock walls do not feel cold in the sun bathing, perhaps more often because of our fiery heart. In summer, the fatigue after climbing can be easily taken away by the river water under the rock wall, bringing endless refreshing and fun. Lao Shanshui is famous for its sweetness and refreshingness. We hardly need to bring water for rock climbing here. Everything is pure and natural. How pleasant is it to use the water here to make double the tea; how pleasant is a watermelon on ice in the river.
The Erlong Mountain Scenic Spot in Laoshan is the most frequently visited recently. In October 2006, when we were fighting on a route of nearly 30 meters, Mr. Jin Shangyi invited the manager of MAD ROCK China from Beijing to be there. Build a new line. There was a beautiful sports route hanging on the boulder that was unclimbable in our eyes, and we couldn’t help but be delighted. There are masters in is more able to inspire everyone. It is a pity that the first master literature on the island had to leave Qingdao due to work reasons, otherwise I think there will be more beautiful classic routes in Qingdao now. In the next period of time, this line has become the target of all of us attacking. After a month of Yangshuo experience, Jin Dong first captured this route, which we estimate as 5.11b. After this route was conquered by everyone one after another, Junhai opened two new routes on both sides of it, “Rain Over the Sky” and a new route that has not yet been named. Among them, “The Rain Over the Sky” was conquered by Yang Jian alone. The newly opened route on the right has not yet been climbed by Yang Jian. The best climber on this route is our eldest brother, Bamboo Pole. This eldest brother this year 46 years old, he only started climbing 2 years ago, and with his perseverance, we can’t tell that he is in his 40s at all, he can do the same routes we can do, even sometimes more than us. Earlier, his tenacity was the most admirable. In Lang Lang’s blog, he was described as a spiritual leader in the Qingdao rock climbing industry.
There are also 3 huge rock walls on the periphery of Erlong Mountain Scenic Area, which look like adidas trademarks from a distance. From the reservoir of Erlong Mountain Scenic Area, you can walk directly to the bottom of the rock wall of Guangguanggu. There are a total of 5 routes, 3 of which can be climbed to the top of the 80-meter rock wall in groups. The most stories here are “Xingtian 6,000 yuan”. This is a line that connects to the top. When the paper line has not been fully developed to the top, the daughter of the document was born, so it has the original name of “Xingtian”. In the next few consecutive road repairs, the story continued. First, the document lost 400 yuan near there, and then the boss Wang Heng accidentally dropped the camera from a distance of nearly 20 meters. The nearly 4,000 yuan camera was scrapped like this. After the final line is completed, the total value of the next hanging pieces is also nearly 1,000 yuan, plus the various expenses for the back and forth are nearly 600 yuan. This may be the most expensive route in Qingdao, so “6000 yuan” is added after “Xingtian”. If climbing in the Erlong Mountain Scenic Area is to enjoy the coolness of the river, then here you can experience the magnificent waves of the sea. Looking north from Guangguanggu is Yangkou Bay, and several islands are scattered in it, which makes people feel relaxed and happy. Yangkou Scenic Area is also famous because of the scenery where the mountains, sea and sky are connected.
When it comes to Yangkou Scenic Area, we cannot fail to mention the rock climbing routes in this scenic area. Because it’s all huge granite, the routes here are basically set up for group climbing. At present, there are about 10 articles in total, which can be said to be complete from simple to difficult. There is simply “Yangzheng” developed by the Korean Mountain Association. This 100-meter group route with diverse terrains can be successfully climbed even by friends who have not practiced rock climbing, and can allow more people to experience rock climbing. fun of. And after climbing to the top, you can stand at the highest point of Yangkou Scenic Area, and you can see the beautiful scenery of the entire scenic area. There is also the only 5.12-level line in Qingdao at present. Except for a few people who can climb this line, no one has tried it yet. We need to keep trying to improve ourselves to be able to complete this line.
In order to better develop and utilize Qingdao’s abundant rock resources, we established the Qingdao Climbing Fund in 2006. Everyone contributes to our efforts. The lack of funds, equipment, and personnel encountered in rock climbing in other places is a problem for us. It is said that there are no obstacles. Thanks to everyone’s efforts, Qingdao’s rock climbing is developing rapidly. In October 2007, we organized the Qingdao China-Korea Youth Rock Climbing Competition. The chairman of the National Climbing Association, Li Zhixin, came to the scene to guide us, which made us feel encouraged. , We believe that the potential for the development of the route in Laoshan is still very huge. Due to our limited level, it is often impossible to plan and develop the route well. Therefore, we do not dare to start easily. Welcome friends to Qingdao to rock climbing. I also hope that the arrival of friends can bring us new things, and we can also improve our own level under the communication with each other. I also hope that our Laoshan route will be more colorful.
Kim Sang-il Character Story
When it comes to the development of rock climbing in Qingdao, it is impossible not to mention an old Korean gentleman in his 60s – Kim Sang-il. It is with his strong support that Qingdao can develop so many routes. Kim Sang-il is a Korean. As early as 1992, he invested and set up a factory in Qingdao. It has been 17 years now, and he regards it as his hometown. 40 years ago in Seoul, South Korea, when it was just dawn, a bald boy gently pushed open the door of his house, carrying a small bag of rice in his hand and a large backpack on his body. There were about a dozen people waiting outside, each carrying a large backpack. On the outskirts of the city, they sold rice to hungry farmers in exchange for a small wad of money. First by train, then by boat, they arrived at Hallasan Mountain on Jeju Island a few days later. Wearing old American military shoes bought from NTU Six, they climbed up the steep mountain road, the sun shining on everyone’s face…
Today, Kim Sang-il, a South Korean, still looks proud when he talks about his mountaineering experience 40 years ago. At that time, he was stubborn and strong in the second year of high school in Yangzheng Middle School. He participated in the school’s “mountain club”, and climbed mountains and rocks with “seniors”. At that time, the poor people did not have any equipment, and they had to steal rice from their homes in exchange for tolls. Anyone who wanted a hoop would deliberately hang it on the outside of their backpacks to show off. It was under such conditions that Kim Sang-il climbed all the mountains in Korea.
“In Korea, there are too many people who like to climb mountains, and many mountains have people queuing up to climb.” Jin Shangyi said with emotion, and it was because of this that he felt lonely when he set up a factory in Qingdao, China in 1992. Although the scenery of Laoshan is good, I never heard that anyone in Qingdao likes rock climbing. He drives to Beijiushui every week, climbs to Chaoyin Waterfall by himself, and then descends from Huayan Temple.
Once he suddenly came up with an idea: to teach his rock climbing skills to the young people in Qingdao, so that he can have more mountain friends. During the Spring Festival that year, he organized several strong people in the company to climb Laoshan Mountain. Later, with the frequent activities, many people came here, and more and more of his disciples. In August 2002, Jin Shangyi set up a mountaineering school, selected a few skilled disciples to train with the National Mountaineering Team in Beijing, and went to Seoul to learn ice climbing. His school does not charge tuition fees. He said: “If you really want to make money, you can invest your funds elsewhere, and the rate of return will be high. Mountaineering is just his dream.” Kim Sang-il’s reputation in the domestic mountaineering circle is also Very good, since he was young, he was an active member of the domestic mountain alliance. He started rock climbing in high school and participated in the Mount Everest climbing activities in South Korea. After coming to Qingdao, I have to go to Laoshan almost every week. It is precisely because of the early rock climbing routes established by him, Junhai, Wenwen and others that more friends can devote themselves to this sport. In the absence of artificial rock walls at that time, these lines became a gathering place for everyone.
The story of the rock climbing circle in Qingdao
The online name of the literature is “wind”, the first brother of Qingdao rock climbing, his person and name are the same as “the man with the same wind”, everyone in the circle thinks that he was born for rock climbing. The document turned out to be a member of the rock climbing team of Beijing University of Geosciences. When he was in school, he participated in many domestic rock climbing events and achieved a lot of results. After graduation, I returned to Qingdao. Without resources or partners, I used all available resources to practice rock climbing. The door frame of the dormitory became a fingerboard, and the door of the dormitory became a decoration The maximum strap is 50KG, so his fingers are super strong, and he is the only guy in our gang who can use a single finger to guide the body. Literature can be said to be a soul figure in the Qingdao rock climbing circle. His style has influenced many people. It is gentle and stretchy. Seeing him climbing is really enjoying rock ballet. It is under his influence that many people began to like rock climbing. In 2005, Wen and rocker organized the Yilu Outdoor Sports Club to promote rock climbing in Qingdao.
Rocker is one of the people in the circle who believe that Qingdao started rock climbing at the earliest. He has been involved in rock climbing since graduating from college in 1997. At that time, there was no outdoor club in Qingdao, and there were no rock walls, only some undeveloped natural rock walls. Now It seems that the difficulty is only 5.8. When there was no one to lead the way and no equipment at that time, it was a very difficult route. It was only in 1998 that rocker learned from an issue of Shanye Magazine that there were two outdoor sports clubs in Beijing, one is Yuanfeiniao and the other is Yanjie, so with the idea of giving it a try, Rocker tried every means to find Zhang Yuanhui, the head of Yuanfeiniao, through a friend in Beijing. , Brother Zhang Yuanhui was very enthusiastic at that time to help rocker purchase a set of basic climbing equipment (a 50 main rope, a seat belt, a figure 8, two main locks), and rocker started his own rocker without anyone to lead the way. On the rock climbing road, in 2000, rocker met Wang Er and Xiao Zong when he was purchasing equipment in the wind and rain in Beijing. Rocker learned a lot of practical experience from Wang Er and Xiao Zong. After returning to Qingdao from Beijing, Rocker met Jin Shangyi by chance, and started rock climbing slowly with the Koreans. At that time, only Rocker, a Chinese, was climbing with the Koreans. The language barrier affected communication. Rocker always wants to find a Chinese who can partner with him. In August 2000, after watching Brother Tom’s rock climbing stunt in “Dish in a Dish”, Comrade Rocker’s blood began to boil, and he went to the floating mountain to play solo. The consequences of complying with the safety rules are quite serious. Comrade Rocker fell off a 20-meter cliff and paid the price of a smashed thigh fracture, thus starting a long and painful “bed time”. Just as his fear of rock climbing was slowly developing, rocker received a call in October, which rekindled his enthusiasm for rock climbing. Another climber in Qingdao learned from Wang Er that there are still people climbing in Qingdao, and excitedly got in touch with Rocker. After Rocker received the call, it would be good to make the call two months earlier…
“Bamboo Pole” is the oldest of our group, and the latest to get into rock climbing. He started rock climbing in 2005 when he was 45 years old. Since then, he has been out of control. He can go to the post every Tuesday and Thursday. Yanba saw the figure of him training hard. His perseverance makes it impossible for us to see that he is a man in his 40s. He can do the same route we can, and sometimes even earlier than us. His tenacity is the most impressive. Admirably, in Lang Lang’s blog, he was even described as a spiritual leader in the Qingdao rock climbing industry.
“Second brother” is known as the shadow of Yuanshan, the second oldest among our group. He was in his thirties when he started rock climbing in 2002. He had never played rock climbing before. People know, the second brother is also the best financial condition of our group. Of course, we are often asked by us to “bleed” to build roads. Every second brother contributes money and efforts, and he sweats like rain on almost every route. figure. Since 2006, the second brother and Zhugan have taken a month to go to Yangshuo to go rock climbing almost every year. The love and dedication to rock climbing has infected us. Among the many routes in Xiaowang, what we miss the most is the smile of Afanti. This 40-meter-high knot group route is the “main drill” of the second brother. We tap on the hard granite with a hand drill a little bit. from. Because we couldn’t get an electric drill when opening the line, we chose our hands as a strong tool that does not use any electricity in the face of the attraction of the line. At that time, the second brother was hanging on the rock wall for several hours, and it took more than half an hour to make a hanging piece on the hard granite, and he could not play a few times a day. , the second brother led us to open a wonderful 40-meter-high route on this extremely hard granite with both hands—–Afanti’s smile.
Many people in Qingdao came into contact with rock climbing by chance, and they have been out of control since then. JESSCA, the mother of a 4-year-old boy, met us rock climbing in Fushan on the National Day of 2006, and immediately stepped forward to try it once. Unexpectedly, she discovered her rock climbing talent and fell in love with rock climbing since then; Lang Lang a year ago Through participating in the activities of Yilu, I came into contact with rock climbing, so as to regard it as the most important thing in life. In his blog, we can see the obsession with rock climbing and the calloused hands. Climbing obsession; Kangaroo, a 14-year-old boy, has been climbing with us since 2005, and won the 14-19-year-old double champion in speed and difficulty in the 2007 National Youth Climbing Championships.
