XiaShuYuan – 下书院

1. Cherries thief / 樱桃大盗

5.11a 113 m,  (0.4~6)

  • P1 / 第一段: 5.11a, 33 m. Anchor:
  • P2 / 第二段: 5.10c, 27 m. Anchor:
  • P3 / 第三段: walk, 18 m. Anchor: 1
  • P4 / 第四段:
    • 1a: 5.10b, 35 m. Anchor: Tree
    • 1b: 5.10c, 37 m. Anchor: Tree
  • Descent / 下来: Traverse the summit platform towards the large upper dam and find a bolt. Abseil down 40m (35m requires some more scrambling, be careful) then hike the large couloir down.
FFA & Set: Qingdao climbing fund team, June 2023

2. Unnamed 51 / 未命名 51

Open 113 m,  (0.4~6)

  • P1 / 第一段: Open, 33 m. Anchor:
  • Descent / 下来: Abseil down.
FFA & Set: Qingdao climbing fund team, June 2023

3. Turn bad luck into good luck / 逢凶化吉

5.10b 100 m,  (0.75~6)

  • P1 / 第一段: 5.10a, 35 m. Difficult to protect. Anchor: Tree
  • P2 / 第二段: 5.10b, 35 m. Anchor:
  • P3 / 第三段: 5.10a, 30 m. Anchor: Tree
  • Descent / 下来: Traverse the summit platform towards the large upper dam and find a bolt. Abseil down 40m (35m requires some more scrambling, be careful) then hike the large couloir down.

Rock falls are likely in P1 and P2. Pay particularly attention to a large unstable rock in the middle of P2, that couldn’t be cleaned during the first climb.

FFA & Set: Qingdao climbing fund team, May 2023